STILL the best butternut squash I’ve ever had. We hasselback the whole squash so every thin slice crisps at the edges & stays silky in the middle, then land it on a pool of whipped ricotta & goat cheese — cool, tangy, swooshable — pile it high with chopped dates, toasted sunflower seeds, parsley, & a hit of lemon zest. Sweet, salty, bright. The kind of veggie that makes people forget it is a veggie.